Hei Michael,
Takk for hilsen på norsk.
Vi får vel holde oss til tysk og litt engelsk her.
Forøvrig alltid moro å besøke andre baner, men også moro på balkongen.
Viele Grüße,
Thomas
Hei Michael,
Takk for hilsen på norsk.
Vi får vel holde oss til tysk og litt engelsk her.
Forøvrig alltid moro å besøke andre baner, men også moro på balkongen.
Viele Grüße,
Thomas
Hallo Andreas x2,
Thanks for your kind words.
It is all about getting down to get the right perspective
and to avoid everything out of scale.
This railway is raised about 1 m, so "getting down" is easy.
Regards,
Thomas
And I have had the pleasure to test the loco at a larger railway.
Focused on running so didn't take many photos, but this turned out well:
Gruß,
Thomas
Hallo,
A few things more to mention...
The gas filler adapter from Reppingen was filled with brass dust and chippings.
I didn't discover it before I attached it to the filler valve, thus the valve
and tank was filled with brass dust.
I scrapped that valve anyway and instead replaced the small valve
with a self venting Ronson valve as used by Accucraft.
It has the same M5 x 0,5 threads.
(Note that the Roundhouse gas valve is M4,5 x 0,5.)
I can then use the same type of gas filler adapter as I use on my other locos.
Reppingen valve right. Accucraft valve left.
To be able to close the lid on the left water tank I chopped off the bush on the gas tank.
There is still more than enough of the threads left to fit the valve.
Best regards,
Thomas
Hello EKB-fans,
Then my railway has got a new loco in working condition.
After a long and sometimes frustrating building process
the end result seems to turn out very well.
After adding the cab I got some nasty sounds while driving.
It was caused by the brackets on the water tanks being too deep and
getting in conflict with the bolt heads on the expansion links on both sides.
Some more milling and filing fixed it.
The switch from CTI-Modellbau works very well.
Gruß,
Thomas
Ich habe das gleiche Problem und verwende Loctite Schraubensicherungslack als Kleber zwischen Lampe und Fußplatte, nicht nur an die Schrauben.
Gruß
Thomas
A few updates...
The steam regulator was shipped to Reppingen for a fix
and now works very well.
The safety valve was a lot easier to adjust when hot.
I have doubled the size of the hole in the footplate for
the whistle steam.
The servo used for lights turned out to be too cheap.
After a while it got very hot and the lights got dim.
Instead of using a more expensive servo,
I will try the Lokbeleuchtung mit RC schalten. and
have ordered a switch from CTI-Modellbau.
A photo from a new test at the balcony:
Gruß,
Thomas
Zitat von ThomasWie weit ist den Grävesberg weg von Gävle?
Die TGOJ M73 würde mich für Details schon sehr interessieren.
Hallo Thomas,
Grävesberg? Ich denke du Grängesberg meinst? :GR
Ich kenne der Ort nicht, so dann muß ich Google Maps benutze. :wink:
Bitte schreiben mir ein pm in Englisch,
und ich kann vielleicht weiter helfen.
Gruß
Thomas
Zitat von rebelegoDie 100 Jahre Schwedisches Eisenbahnmuseum ist am 23. Mai mit einer große Dampfgala.
Eine tolle Veranstaltung! :flt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKHu5sBTAfA
(nicht mein Video)
Grüß
Thomas
Beachten, es sind zwei Jubiläen.
Die 100 Jahre Schwedisches Eisenbahnmuseum ist am 23. Mai mit einer große Dampfgala.
Die 100 Jahre Bahnelektrifizierung ist am 12. und 13. September mit dem Krokodil.
Dampfgrüße
Thomas
I have done the first few test steam-ups and have some issues.
The steam valve doesn't close properly.
It leaks steam when supposed to be shut.
I have verified this by detaching the steam pipe from the valve.
I have contacted Reppingen, but not got any reply.
According to Reppingen the safety valve should open at 4 bar
and close 1 bar below, ie at 3 bar.
My safety valve opens at 5 bar and close at 3,4 bar.
How can it be adjusted? Is it like the Roundhouse valve?
I have tried to use a plier in the holes on top, but it seems stuck.
Else, it seems like this is a very powerful and easy rolling engine.
It will probably require a heavy load to pull.
Though, it ran quite well at only 0,3 bar on air, but I'm not happy
with the timing on steam, so I think I must do a second round of fine tuning.
Gruß,
Thomas
Hallo Turbinenbauer,
Echtdampfturbinenlokomotive mit Fahrgestell aus LEGO. :flt:
[youtube]
Gruß
Thomas
Hi Zoltan,
How to convert a servo to switch on and off LED's:
http://www.instructables.com/i…on-and-off-LEDs/?ALLSTEPS
You may want to keep the potentiometer and use it to adjust the center point.
My first intention was to attach the servo with a Y-cable to the same channel as the direction control,
but as I decided to use the 3-way switch instead, I just replaced the 5k potentiometer with two 2k5 resistors.
Regards,
Thomas
Hi EKB-fans,
Very slow progress, and I only have my self to blame. :pff:
I have now mounted the lamps and done the wiring.
I think it is a good idea to do it before mounting the footplate to the frame.
The lights are controlled by a small and inexpensive servo which is
controlled by a tree-way switch on the RC transmitter.
The servo motor is removed and the potentiometer is replaced by two resistors.
By using the trim for the center point I get 'on forward' - off - 'on backward' on the switch.
Fröhliche Ostern,
Thomas
Lommedalsbanen ist ein kleines Industrie- und Feldbahnmuseum in der nähe von Oslo.
600 mm Schmalspur mit Dampf oder Diesel in betrieb Sonntagen im Juni, August, September und Dezember.
http://www.lommedalsbanen.no/ (nur Norwegisch)
Einige meiner eigenen Bilder...
Grüß,
Thomas
Hello again,
Thanks for the info. I found myself sounding a bit grumpy here, but it is not really the case. More a matter of frustration. :roll:
Anyway, I have got an e-mail from Ralph Reppingen saying he is getting help translating the user manual into English. Though, I don't know whether this indicates that there exist a user manual in German. (?)
Note that my criticism of the building instructions is not related to language issues. In case any other read this and wonder... the building instructions are only available in German. I have had no problems with that. I have also got the building instructions as a PDF file which makes it easy to copy and paste into Google translate if needed. Though, Google sometimes makes some funny and weird translations.
For "Deutsch - Norwegisches Wörterbuch" I can recommend Heinzelnisse.
Regards,
Thomas
Hi Zoltan,
Thanks for your info. Nice to know what to expect from Regner.
I try to follow your Vulkan-thread.
Kind regards,
Thomas
Hi all,
Thanks for your answers. As I said, disappointments are all about expectations, and mine where certainly wrong. Sounds like this is what to expect from a Regner kit as well?
Yes, the Brits seem to be a bit paranoid regarding boiler testing and certificates. Then I assume that non of the German vendors like Regner, Herrmann and Reppingen deliver their locos with such. (?) The reason for asking was this image on the Reppingen website showing an EKB with what seems to be a serial number on the boiler.
I think I manage very well without a user manual. I just expected there to be one. I'm only looking for specific info about the EKB. Things like the working pressure can vary between models and vendors. As Reppingen also sells RTR locos it is strange not to provide any user manual. Though, I find it even more strange (and a bit annoying) that Reppingen does not answer my questions about it. Investing some time in documentation will usually pay off in less support, but of cause it is a trade-off. Though, I guess Reppingen would save both time and extra shipping costs by at least making a check list for him self. :wink:
In January I started on a Roundhouse chassis with Riverdale boiler, and it is a totally different world. Nice and detailed building instructions and complete check list for all parts. The Roundhouse building instructions can be downloaded from their website and can actually be useful reading when building any live steam loco.
Kind regards,
Thomas
And then some questions... :GR
Do your Reppingen boilers and gas tanks come with serial numbers and certificates?
Did your gas tank fit inside the cab?
Are you able to close the lid on the leftside tank?
Is there any user manual available for the EKB?
What is the normal working pressure?
When should the security valve release?
Thanks.
Best regards,
Thomas
Hallo,
Reppingen EKB threads auf Deutsch:
EKB von Reppingen
Dampfmodellbau Reppingen - Bausatz EKB (18, 19, 20c)
This is the only forum I have found with some info and decent knowledge about the live steam models from Reppingen. Hopefully I can get some questions answered here, as several of my questions sent to Ralph Reppingen are never answered. It will be helpful for me to keep this thread in English, but feel free to write in German, or a mix, ie. if you write in English and don't know the proper English word just use the German word. Quite often technical words are similar in German and Norwegian, but totally different in English.
I have been working on the EKB for a while, and I am sorry to say that the Reppingen EKB kit has been a disappointment. There are three big issues: Crappy building instructions, missing parts and parts which do not fit and work properly. Which of cause slows building progress and leads to some frustrations. :?
Building instructions
Some steps are well described, other steps are totally missing. The EKB model obviously comes in different variations, and is being constantly changed and "improved". The photos are of older versions or of totally different models. Reppingen has sent me several new photos, but even some of them are differing from the model I have.
Missing parts
I received the kit in July 2014 and hopefully I have now got the last shipment of parts in the end of February 2015. A very big problem is that there is no complete check list, so you will not discover which parts are missing until you get to the point where you need the parts. In combination with the above mentioned crappy building instructions it can also be hard to figure out whether you actually are missing something or if your version of the kit is different. So, several extra letters and packets have been sent from Reppingen. Maybe not a big issue if you live in Germany, but living in Norway and outside EU it can take a week or two.
Parts do not fit
According to Ralph Reppingen the EKB kit should be "just to put thogether with a screwdriver". This is very far from the truth. I expected to do some filing and sanding to remove burr etc, but the amount of metal work required to make parts fit and work properly has been a big disappointment. I could make a long list of all the cutting, drilling, reaming, filing, sanding, making threads, etc I have had to do. I wonder if I have been unlucky and got a kit made at the end of a batch with worn drills and reamers. I find it very strange that I even have to drill up several of the holes for the standard M2 bolts to get them through.
Anyway, disappointments are all about expectations. If you know what you get, have the required skills and a well equipped workshop the Reppingen EKB kit might be the right challenge. I have experience with live steam, but this is my first loco kit. I have had to invest in a lot of new tools, and a positive thing is that I am learning and improving my skills. Currently my chassis runs promising on air, so I still believe I will get a powerful and good running engine in the end. :roll:
Grüße aus Norwegen,
Thomas